It seems “The African
Queen”, a classic movie from the 1950’s, has been resurrected, well, at least
the boat has.
The first time I saw this film was decades
ago, but I have seen it again fairly recently.
It’s a great film about two very ill-matched
people who have an extraordinary experience during World War 1 in Africa on a
boat that looks like it is going to fall apart at any moment.
It’s quite the old-style adventure movie. We
don’t see too many of these nowadays.
It’s certainly worthwhile watching if you
haven’t seen it before, and I would recommend “White Hunter Black Heart” as a
film to be watched after it.
As Wiki puts it
“White Hunter Black Heart” is a 1990 American film, directed by and
starring Clint Eastwood as John Wilson,
based on the book by Peter Viertel. Viertel also
co-wrote the script with James Bridges and Burt Kennedy. The film was based on
several Golden Age of Hollywood movie
producers. The main character is based on real-life director John Huston; at times, Eastwood can
be heard drawing out his vowels, speaking in Huston's distinctive style.
George Dzundza's character is based
on African Queen producer Sam
Spiegel.”
More information at the
link.
Now,according to the article below, it seems
several boats were made for the movie, and now one of them is going to transport
tourists rather than a spinster and a crazy captain!
By
Mark Stratton
KATHARINE Hepburn isn't at the helm and Bogie isn't kicking the boiler,
but the pugnacious African Queen is once again ploughing the Nile.
The
century-old firebox is fed with wood to generate a sufficient head of steam, the
flywheel twirls into life, the pistons pogo, the steam-whistle peeps and the
engine groans into life. It sounds like a pair of wellies in a washing machine.
This is its first pleasure cruise since being pressed back into service by a New
Zealander, Cam McLeay, from its moorings at Wildwaters Lodge in eastern
Uganda.
The
film of The African Queen, directed by John Huston and released in 1951, is
cemented in cinematic history. Based on CS Forester's 1934 novel, it was set
during World War I in German-occupied East Africa. Humphrey Bogart won an Oscar
for his portrayal of the gin-soaked, ambition-free steamboat captain Charlie
Allnut, who takes on board prudish missionary Rosie Sayer (Hepburn).
Allnut
wants to see out the war in an alcoholic haze but Sayer has other ideas. In a
pique of patriotic zeal she badgers the reluctant Allnut to take the African
Queen down the previously unnavigable Ulanga River to destroy a German lake
cruiser. Steadily, Allnut falls for his "crazy psalm-singing skinny old maid"
and an unlikely romance blossoms on an epic voyage amid fierce whitewater,
German bullets and malarial swamps.
Forester was quixotic with his novel's locations. Ulanga is a Tanzanian
river but doesn't flow into Lake Tanganyika, where imperial Germany held naval
sway. Equally, the filming locations were geographically discordant. Scenes were
shot in London's defunct Isleworth Studios, the Belgian Congo and Uganda. In
this last location, Nile scenery was filmed at Murchison Falls National Park,
where McLeay's version of the African Queen boat was unearthed in
1984.
I say "version" because of uncertainty about how many African
Queens were used during filming.
The
original boat, the Livingstone, was built in 1912 in England. This 30ft
steamboat operated in the Belgian Congo and was rented by Huston's crew for the
movie, where it appears in scenes filmed around the Congo. It was sold to an
American buyer in 1968 and now takes pleasure cruises out of Key Largo,
Florida.
Its
current owner insists none other than his African Queen and scaled-down models
were used during filming. McLeay, however, is equally adamant his African Queen
was specially constructed for the Ugandan film scenes. An explorer who has
traversed the Nile's length by boat, McLeay founded whitewater rafting company
Adrift and in 2010 opened Wildwaters Lodge. He wanted an old riverboat for his
lodge.
"When
I first heard a Kenyan guy, Yank Evans, was selling the African Queen, I
thought, You're joking ... Humphrey's boat?" McLeay explains. "I phoned Yank and
he told me he'd discovered it when building a road around Murchison Falls in the
1980s. His local workers insisted to a man it was the African Queen.
"Yank
uncovered its steel carcass rusted below the waterline, with a mock boiler and
toppled flue."
The
fake boiler and flue are significant clues. In the movie the boat (or boats)
used were diesel-driven but were mocked up to resemble a steam-powered
vessel.
"Yank
rebuilt its hull and his friend in England sourced a century-old steam engine
[made in Blackburn], which he freighted to Uganda," continues McLeay. "By the
1990s it was running again but now truly steam-powered. When I bought it three
years back, it'd succumbed to rust again. We've spent a few years overhauling
it."
He
rejects the idea of the Florida African Queen as the only full-sized one in
existence. "I strongly advocate we have one [that was] built for the Nile
filming. To transfer the African Queen used in scenes in the Congo back to
Uganda for further filming would've taken months back in 1951 [and] the cast
were only in Africa for three months. There are images in Hepburn's book The
Making of the African Queen that show a full-sized version on the Ugandan Nile,
and ours is near-identical to the Florida boat."
My
silver-screen homage had begun at Uganda's Entebbe airport. From here I
travelled 145km east to Wildwaters Lodge on the White Nile, flowing north from
Lake Victoria.
Beyond
Kangulumira, some of the mightiest whitewaters on earth thunder over Kalagala
Falls and gush chaotically between rainforested midstream islands. Reaching
Wildwaters Lodge means taking a dugout across a tranquil corridor of water to
the midstream Kalagala Island.
All-inclusive Wildwaters offers 10 high-end cottages linked by boardwalks
to a river-facing restaurant and swimming pool.
My
cottage exudes retro comfiness, characterised by plump floral-fabric armchairs,
chaise longue and clawfoot bathtub on a riverside veranda for alfresco bathing.
It overlooks a Grade 6 rapid (considered unraftable) called Hypoxia. The rapid's
constant roar provides an ever-present gravelly tinnitus.
I'm
introduced to McLeay's African Queen that afternoon. Wallowing in shallows off a
slipway surrounded by water hyacinths, it's a narrow workhorse with a shallow
draught, a white and bark-coloured steel hull trimmed by a wooden gunwale and a
black boiler topped by a flue.
It is
a bit of tinkering away from being readied to take visitors on two-hour cruises
into calm water. I get to join a test run.
Completing final preparations is another Kiwi, engineer Gavin Fahey, who,
like Bogart's Allnut, is appropriately unshaven and able to turn his hand to all
things mechanical.
"The
reason it's taken so long to get going is the old boiler. We've had to rebuild
it and manufacture some parts ourselves. It never came with an instruction
manual," shrugs Fahey. "We're trying to get as close to the original as
possible. I've still got to assemble the awning Katharine Hepburn sat under and
replace the mast that rotted through."
It is
built for neither quick getaways nor solo operation. Fahey's co-engineer, a
Ugandan called Bonny, busily feeds it firewood and tweaks hissing valves as we
wait 45 minutes for the boiler temperature to superheat steam to the 120psi
pressure required before the flywheel will engage the gearbox. Then we're all
aboard and it plods upstream at a few knots against the Nile current.
The
plan was to test the boat in some mild whitewater but after 30 minutes the water
pump malfunctions. "We don't want to be aboard if the boiler dries out because
she'll go pop," cautions Fahey.
Its
steam is expelled mid-Nile, firebox doused, and we're ignominiously towed
home.
While
the boat heads back to the workshop, the next day I attempt one of Uganda's most
popular activities: Nile whitewater rafting. Having experienced the African
Queen's foibles, I soon realise that the movie scenes showing it careering down
monstrously large rapids are laughable.
My
first capsize of the day, tackling Grade 5 whitewater by dinghy, guided by
Tasmanian river guide Tom, is at a malicious rapid called Bubogo (meaning
condolences). After barely keeping upright while plunging over a 4m waterfall
known as Overtime, we're completely out of control within Bubogo's ferocious
maelstrom.
We're
flipped and I'm sucked underwater to rotate on fast spin before being rescued,
gasping, by the safety kayakers.
The
subsequent rapids - Vengeance, The Bad Place and Itanda (Graveyard) - scarcely
rebuild my confidence. However, fear eventually transforms into
adrenalin-fuelled fun as we ride river monsters to the point of hysterical
amusement.
We're
finally overturned by a rearing cobra of a wave at Kula Shaker rapid.
"I
don't reckon your African Queen would survive this lot, mate, it'd fill up with
water and sink after the first rapid," offers Tom.
A day
later it's the commercial debut from Wildwaters Lodge of its African Queen.
Fahey hopes he's solved the water-pump issue and I join the first paying
customers, Alan and Cynthia from Launceston. We're soon sipping
G&Ts.
As we
make thumping progress upriver, Cynthia is offered control of the helm. She may
well be the first woman to assume that responsibility since Hepburn. "I'm in
disbelief," coos Cynthia. "I've never driven a boat before and now my first is
the African Queen. I feel like Katharine, only without her jawline."
All is
going well: second G&T in hands, canapes, visceral Nile scenery, Bonny
bashing the flywheel. Then the water-pressure gauge slumps to nearly empty.
Abandon trip.
Still,
we've made 40 minutes this time and are able to whoosh back to Wildwaters on a
fast current.
Beer
in hand, Fahey smiles. "We're 75 per cent there," he says. "Well, maybe 65 per
cent. But the old girl's worth the effort." I'm sure he means the steamboat and
not Katharine Hepburn.
Wildwaters Lodge offers its guests a
two-hour excursion on the African Queen for about $95.
Double rooms with all inclusions start at about $745. More: wild-uganda.com.
With thanks to The
Australian
Additional information:
“C.S. Forester's novel was originally bought
by Columbia for Charles Laughton and Elsa Lanchester, then sold to Warners for
Errol Flynn and Bette Davis. John Huston found it years later at Fox. He
encouraged Katherine Hepburn, who suffered from dysentery through most of the
shoot, to play her role like Eleanor Roosevelt.
Screenwriter James Agee,
sidelined by a heart attack, disliked the happy ending provided by Huston and
writer Peter Vertiel.”
With many thanks to Trailers From
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